Curated

Restraint Is Not Absence

On a Bukit Pasoh bar that walks the thin line between cinematic restraint and well-dressed silence, and the four-ingredient menu refresh that argues the discipline still has pressure inside it.

Anon NonaJanuary 15, 202611 min read
A low-lit mid-century Japanese-inspired cocktail bar with amber light and fine glassware

Live Twice has a very specific danger, and it is the danger of tastefulness.

Not bad taste. Bad taste would almost be easier, because bad taste gives me something to push against. Tastefulness is harder because it arrives already edited. Warm wood. Low amber light. Mid-century Japanese references, fine glassware, quiet service. A menu that believes in restraint. A room that seems designed to make everyone lower their voice by twenty per cent.

This can be beautiful, and it can just as easily be dead.

Live Twice is one of the Jigger & Pony Group's quieter rooms, sitting on the ground floor of a shared 1930s shophouse at 18-20 Bukit Pasoh Road alongside its group siblings Gibson and Humpback. It opened on the twenty-seventh of December 2019, in the former Flagship space, and refreshed its menu for the first time in six years on the seventeenth of September 2025, under new principal bartender Luca Lulli. He is the room's third principal bartender, after opening principal Yinying Leow and David Kim from early 2022. Lulli works under Aki Eguchi, the group's Bar Director. The refresh introduced a four-ingredient discipline framed around the Japanese concept of shokunin, and that refresh is the room's editorial argument.

Tastefulness as risk

A bar like this has to be careful not to become an aesthetic exercise. Singapore has no shortage of rooms that look like someone spent a lot of money making them feel understated. Understatement, handled badly, is just wealth pretending not to speak. I sit inside good taste, drink something clear, nod at the glassware, and feel absolutely nothing.

Live Twice is better than that because it treats restraint as a kind of pressure rather than an emptying out.

The room's reference point is not cartoon Japan. There are no lazy lanterns, no sake-bar cosplay, no heavy-handed Tokyo fantasy. The design brief was Bond meets Mad Men, with Ian Fleming's 1964 novel You Only Live Twice (the only Bond story set in Asia) as the literary scaffolding and mid-century Western and Japanese furniture as the physical vocabulary. The forty-seat shophouse is narrow and long, broken up with alcoves and lined in plywood and washi paper. The seating runs mid-century European modernism. Kimura glassware sits on the back counter.

That communal table matters, because a communal table in a quiet bar is not a neutral object. It is a test. It asks whether the room wants to be intimate or social, private or shared, Japanese-inspired or Singapore-functional. Too much hush and the table becomes awkward; too much chatter and the cinematic spell breaks. Live Twice has to sit between those states, calm enough to feel composed, loose enough to remain a bar.

That is the real challenge. Japanese-style cocktail bars are often treated with too much reverence. The guest is expected to admire the ice, the shake, the silence, the exactness, until everything becomes ritual. Ritual can be powerful, but in the wrong room it becomes pious, and I begin to feel that the bartender is not making me a drink so much as demonstrating a moral superiority over my usual way of living.

Live Twice avoids the worst of this because it is not actually a purist Japanese bar, and that may be its best quality. It continues the city's long love affair with Ginza-style cocktail rooms, but it is not James Bond cosplay despite the name, and it does not chase traditional purist ideals. It keeps the aesthetic language and breaks the religion.

That is where the bar starts to become interesting. The Japanese influence gives it discipline. The Singapore context gives it permission to breathe. The Jigger & Pony machinery gives it polish. The danger is that all three forces could make the bar too controlled, but when they align properly, Live Twice becomes a room about focus rather than formality.

Subtraction as luxury

The September 2025 menu makes that clearest. Lulli's refresh keeps each cocktail to no more than four ingredients, a deliberate constraint meant to force purity, focus, and the expression of the spirit itself. The menu is split into One Life for Yourself, a quieter classic-led section, and ...And One for Your Dreams, a more contemporary section named after geishas. The cocktails run at twenty-eight dollars; happy hour from six to eight daily prices all fourteen signatures at sixteen.

That four-ingredient rule is the menu's editorial position. Not because fewer ingredients automatically make better cocktails; minimalism has its own frauds. A drink can have four ingredients and still be boring. A drink can have twelve and be perfectly necessary. The value of a limit is that it exposes judgment. With only four moves, there is nowhere to hide. Every ingredient has to work, and every omission matters.

That is Live Twice's natural territory. It is not trying to overwhelm me with abundance; it is trying to make subtraction feel luxurious. The best possible Live Twice drink should feel like someone removed everything unnecessary and then stopped exactly one second before the drink became austere.

I ordered the Mizuwari. The glass arrived with no fanfare, clear and cold, the whisky already changed by water that had been doing its slow work for days in a ceramic tsubo urn. The first sip went down softer than the spirits list suggested. The burn arrived later than I had braced for. Hibiki Harmony, Chita Single Grain, Bowmore 15, and soft water from Hokkaido, three whiskies that should have insisted on their separate identities, plus water as the fourth ingredient, matured together for a minimum of three days in the urn before service. The whiskies had been folded down into one round note, the days in the urn showing up in the glass as a kind of patience you could taste.

It was the kind of drink that asks me to lower my voice without ever telling me to. A Mizuwari is not dramatic in the obvious way. It is whisky, water, temperature, patience, dilution, and proportion, and it depends on small decisions. In another bar, it might feel too quiet to anchor a menu. Here, quiet is the point. The drink asks whether I can pay attention without being entertained into doing so, which is an increasingly rare question in bars.

Most contemporary cocktail menus are desperate to keep me stimulated. Every drink has a hook, every hook has a story, every story has a garnish. Live Twice does the opposite. It makes me come closer. That can feel elegant, and it can also feel slightly demanding. The bar is not giving me spectacle. It is giving me refinement and asking whether refinement is enough. Sometimes it is.

Water as one of the four. The discipline is on what counts as an ingredient.

The bar's most interesting editorial decision in the refresh is that water is not a default in the Mizuwari. It is part of the build. That distinction, water as ingredient rather than as solvent, is where the four-ingredient rule stops being a marketing constraint and starts being a working philosophy. The dilution choices are visible, the patience is visible, the Hokkaido sourcing is visible. The drink does not hide the work it has done.

The Jack Rose, also from the One Life for Yourself side, shows the other register. The bar swaps the traditional applejack for Rémy Martin 1738 Accord Royal Cognac and Calvados, with Dolin Dry Vermouth, house-made grenadine, and fresh lime. The drink stays bright, rosy, and just acidic enough to avoid slipping into cough-syrup territory.

That is a useful drink because it prevents the bar from becoming too solemn. A Jack Rose is not a Zen exercise. It is a red drink with fruit, acid, and a little danger of becoming childish, and Live Twice's version understands that danger. It does not reject pleasure in favour of discipline. It disciplines pleasure, which is the correct hierarchy.

The ...And One for Your Dreams side is where the menu gets more ambitious. Sunbeam 照, made with Don Julio Reposado, umeshu, umeboshi and soda, is a four-ingredient sweet-salty Japanese-inflected highball that uses the umeboshi as the spine the tequila and plum wine flow around. Moonlit Dance 月影, sobacha-infused Monkey Shoulder with strawberry, vermouth and absinthe, sits closer to the kind of cocktail-bar build that lesser rooms would over-decorate, and here it stays disciplined. Eternal Beauty pulls Tanqueray through Mancino Bianco, gyokuro-infused kijōshu, and passion fruit. The Golden Cadillac, with Ron Zacapa 23, Galliano L'Autentico, crème de cacao and whipped cream, is the menu's most direct dessert-cocktail entry and the place where the four-ingredient rule feels least rigorous, because cream as the fourth ingredient does structural rather than expressive work.

These are drinks with very little room for nonsense. Sunbeam has to keep the salt and acidity in front of the sweetness. Moonlit Dance has to land the sobacha-and-absinthe register without becoming smoky theatre. Eternal Beauty has to keep the gyokuro tea visible against the passion fruit. Live Twice's house style depends on taking familiar forms and making them quieter, clearer, and more glassware-aware than the average version.

The phrase glassware-aware sounds stupid, but it matters here. Kimura glassware is not incidental. In a loud, messy bar, fine glassware can feel like theatre; in Live Twice, it is part of how the room directs your attention. A thin glass changes how a drink behaves in my hand. It tells me to slow down, whether I asked to slow down or not. This can become precious.

Where the elegance breaks

That is the friction of the bar. Live Twice is not for every mood. It is not where I go when I want the night to become stupid, not where I go to shout across a room, flirt badly, or drink through a crisis. It is not a place built for chaos; it is too composed for that. The room does not encourage collapse. It encourages posture.

Some nights, posture is exactly what I want. Other nights, it is unbearable. That is not a flaw, it is a use case. The problem would be if Live Twice pretended to be universal, and it does not. It is a very specific machine for a very specific kind of evening: controlled, intimate, cinematic, expensive enough to be considered, polished enough to feel held, and quiet enough that conversation becomes exposed.

Conversation is the hidden test. In a loud bar, conversation can hide behind noise. In a theatrical bar, it can hide behind the room. In Live Twice, there is nowhere to hide. The drink is clean, the light is low, the furniture is good, the communal table is there, the other person is there, and the room will not rescue me with spectacle. That can be wonderful. It can also be fatal to a bad date.

The food helps because it gives the room a bit of warmth. The kitchen leans yōshoku, the marriage of Western elements with Japanese culinary tradition, and runs without a celebrity chef credit. The tamago katsu sando goes for twenty-four dollars, the wagyu katsu sando for forty-four. Potato and leek croquettes at sixteen. A pumpkin crème brûlée served inside a mini pumpkin, also sixteen. The Live Twice seafood platter at forty-eight is sourced from Humpback's kitchen literally next door, since the two rooms share the same ground floor of the shophouse, and the platter crosses the wall before it reaches the table.

This is the right kind of food for the room. Not too greasy, not too precious, comforting but still edited. Sandos are almost too perfect here, soft and structured and Japanese-Western, tidy enough for a careful bar but still fundamentally about appetite. The tamago sando in particular feels like the food version of Live Twice's thesis: softness with edges, comfort under discipline.

The happy hour is another useful crack in the elegance. From six to eight every day, all fourteen signatures drop from twenty-eight to sixteen, not a separate happy-hour menu but the whole list at the lower price. This matters because bars like Live Twice risk becoming occasion-only rooms. A daily happy hour keeps the bar usable. It lets people enter before the night becomes too composed, and it gives the room a small democratic opening.

That is good. Tasteful bars need points of access, otherwise they become shrines for people who already know how to behave in them.

What restraint can be

The best thing about Live Twice may be that it is less cold than its premise suggests. The Japanese salaryman fantasy only works if the room understands exhaustion. Live Twice should feel like the place I go after the day has taken too much from me, not to be revived loudly, not to be entertained, but to be restored into a more deliberate version of myself. The drink arrives, the glass is thin, the light is amber, and the room edits out the city for a while. That is a real form of hospitality.

The danger, always, is that restoration becomes affectation. There is a thin line between cinematic and staged, between restrained and bloodless, between craft and fetish, and Live Twice walks close to that line because the concept requires it. Close to the line is where the bar becomes interesting; too far from it and the room becomes just another polite cocktail bar, too far over it and it becomes a mood board with whisky. The value is in the tension. The September 2025 refresh, with its four-ingredient discipline, is the bar's editorial bet that the tension still holds after six years.

A bar like Live Twice is easy to dismiss if I want obvious excitement, because it does not announce itself with enough force for that. Its appeal is slower. The drink gets clearer as it warms. The room gets better after the first twenty minutes. What matters is not the first impression but what remains after the room has stopped trying to impress me. You only live twice is a ridiculous phrase if taken too literally, but as a bar thesis it has something in it. There is the life outside, bright and noisy and fast and functional and irritating. Then there is the second life of the evening, the one that begins when the first drink arrives and the day loosens its grip. Live Twice is built for that second life, the quieter one, the one where restraint feels less like control and more like mercy.