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Reviews of sit-down restaurants across Singapore.
On a Beach Road upstairs room where Marcus Leow has refused to perform the category the press has been writing about, and a corn dish whose tea, brewed from the leaves and silks, holds the working position in two preparations of the same plant.
On a small Serangoon Gardens restaurant that tore out its thirteen-seat counter and dropped its tasting menu twenty per cent, the opposite of the standard chef-driven-restaurant trajectory.
On an Ann Siang Road restaurant whose signature dish has outlasted every chef they've hired, and what that says about founder-led small-plates discipline.
On a 16-seat North Canal Road counter where Woo Wai Leong has spent years arguing for Nanyang-Chinese cooking as a tasting-menu category, in a city whose Chinese fine dining mostly still means Cantonese banquet.
On the Purvis Street original that has outlasted its founders and the rest of their empire, and a Confit de Canard at $30 that proves the maths can hold if the room stays small.
On a 35-seat Swissôtel rooftop restaurant where Kirk Westaway has spent a decade arguing for modern British fine dining, and an Egg in an Egg that smells like his father's barbecue.
On a Dempsey wood-fire restaurant that built its reputation on a single piece of kitchen equipment and the chef who refuses to let it become a brand.
On a voco Orchard-housed restaurant that has been running its version of modern European cooking for long enough to outlast most of its early competitors.
On a Marina Bay Sands restaurant that brought together a Japanese chef and an Australian operator and built a room around the partnership.
On a group of restaurants that has, for years, served the city's most reliable version of high-end Cantonese cooking.
On a Jinrikisha Station restaurant where a former Restaurant André cook is doing his own version of what that kitchen taught him.
On a chef-driven restaurant that has spent years arguing for Korean ingredients and French technique as a single coherent grammar.