The Oyster in a Betel Leaf
On a small Amoy Street tasting room run by a chef whose identity statement arrives in the first bite.
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Restaurants
Reviews of sit-down restaurants across Singapore.
Stories
53 storiesChilli Crab as an Ice Cream
On an Esplanade restaurant that decided hawker food and Peranakan dishes deserved the tasting-menu format, and has spent years defending the choice.
The Buah Keluak Beef Cheek
On a Dempsey restaurant that has spent years arguing for Peranakan cuisine as serious modern cooking, against a category that mostly does not want the discussion.
The Tartare and the Quenelle of Caviar
On a Shaw Centre institution that has, since 1994, carried Singapore's longest-running argument for classical French dining at the top of the market.
The Chicken Decomposed and Reassembled
On a modern French dining room inside the National Gallery that has had to balance the chef's vision with the building's institutional gravity.